FOR years I made regular pilgrimages to the outskirts of this village to buy fresh cider and doughnuts at the legendary Schultz's, now closed. Down the road, in the center of town, a small Italian restaurant called La Scala draws a faithful clientele of its own. After sampling the old-world fare there, I won't be joining the regulars, but I can imagine occasionally veering off Interstate 684 for the farfalle alla fantasia and a glass of house Chianti.
La Scala presents a formal facade brightened by an autumn display of cornstalks, chrysanthemums and cabbages. In the foyer, easy to miss, is a charming photograph of an old-time gelato truck and its burly driver. Inside, painted pottery fills a glass case, and sprays of orchids bend to greet diners. Early this month, a delightful witch marionette dangled overhead. These touches distract from but can't conceal the somewhat tired interior.
La Scala is nothing if not traditional: waiters in vests and bow ties; paper doily-lined plates; and foil-wrapped butter accompanying semolina bread. The menu makes few concessions to the culinary advancements of recent decades (look for linguine alla puttanesca, veal saltimbocca, potato croquettes), but that didn't seem to dissuade the diners who filled every table on recent Friday and Saturday nights.
Two soups were homey and satisfying: meat tortellini in broth and pasta e fagioli. Clams baked with bread crumbs and oregano, at once salty and sweet, were popular with my guests; fried calamari, however, was left mostly untouched. I liked the contrast of flavors and textures in a dish of baby artichokes baked with mild, creamy Gorgonzola and roasted red peppers on a bed of sharp arugula. A special salad of julienned beets and Gorgonzola had good flavor, although the beets could have been firmer. Two standard salads, Caesar and tre colori, were unremarkable.
Pastas were among the best dishes I tried. Farfalle, sun-dried tomatoes and chunks of shrimp were bound with a fine tomato cream sauce. Paglia e fieno saporito, lovely hay and straw noodles twined with prosciutto and tossed with the same tomato cream sauce, seemed designed for a nippy autumn night. Spaghetti ''delizioso,'' toothsome homemade egg pasta topped with a savory meat sauce, lived up to its billing. Only the spaghetti alla carbonara was disappointing; rich by definition, incorporating eggs, cream and pancetta, it had an oily quality that undid it.
I would return to La Scala any night of the week for the roasted rack of lamb glazed with a light Cognac sauce; the tiny chops, garnished with a tender braised shallot and pungent sprigs of flat leaf parsley, were delicate and delicious. Breast of chicken dipped in batter, sautéed in lemon butter and finished with white wine won me over with its no-frills presentation. A medley of broiled sole, shrimp, scallops and clams in a wine and garlic sauce made a pretty picture, but the fillet of sole had stiffened into a dry curl from overcooking.
Service was friendly and efficient one night but indifferent another (my grudging waiter doted on an adjacent table while all but neglecting mine). On both visits, sides of sautéed escarole and potato croquettes promised with main courses failed to materialize, although I didn't press my case.
The quaint dessert trolley is hard to resist, although resisting might be a good strategy. Ricotta cheesecake and coconut tart lacked character, and tartufos were humdrum. Homemade chocolate profiteroles and éclairs were quickly polished off by my guests, although I found them more showy than substantial. I did like the lemon torte, with its slightly sweet custard, buttery crust and scattering of pine nuts. Almond-studded biscotti arrive with the check.
La Scala
386 Main Street, Armonk
(914)273-3508
GOOD
Atmosphere -- Pottery and flowers brighten the modest dining room and pocket bar. When the restaurant is full, the noise level runs high. Service is friendly and efficient one night, perfunctory another.
Recommended dishes -- Pasta and bean soup, meat tortellini in broth, clams oreganata, baby artichokes with Gorgonzola, farfalle with shrimp and sun-dried tomatoes, straw and hay pasta with prosciutto and peas, chicken breast alla françese, rack of lamb, lemon tart.
Wine list -- Limited but fairly priced, with most bottles under $50.
Prices -- Dinner, appetizers, $5.50 to $10.95, pastas, $13.95 to $17.95, main courses, $15.95 to $24.95, desserts, $6.
Hours -- Tuesdays through Thursdays, noon to 9:30 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays, noon to 10:30 p.m. (lunch served from noon to 4 p.m.), Sundays, 1 p.m. to 9 p.m., dinner menu only.
Credit cards -- Major cards.
Reservations -- Recommended on weekends.
Wheelchair access -- Through the front door.
The Ratings -- Excellent. Very good. Good. Satisfactory. Poor. Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
Review published: Oct. 17, 2004
