THE facade of the landmark building that houses Down By The Bay could use a bit of care, but on a calm summer evening, the view from the front door could not be more picturesque. The restaurant faces Mamaroneck Harbor where, on the far side of traffic whizzing by on Route 1, a graceful flotilla rocks and bobs on Long Island Sound.
Inside the restaurant, space is clearly at a premium. The scant dozen tables fill quickly with diners intent on trying their sea legs, and as long as customers stick to seafood, they will probably be pleased most of the time.
Those planning a full-course meal might think now about skipping dessert. A decision to indulge in good plain vanilla ice cream can always be made later. But other sweet endings were less than impressive: fine puff pastry held apples that were turning into apple sauce; and butterscotch crème brûlée had the desired crisped top but tasted like pudding. Have, instead, a couple of extra side dishes, like delicious rock shrimp mashed potatoes or broccoli rape, which would have been even better with a more generous application of roasted garlic. Ask for it.
A number of appetizers rounded out a meal appealingly. Brought on a bed of arugula, grilled octopus remained tender and moist. A squeeze of lemon, the natively peppery arugula, the charcoal-accented octopus -- the whole resulted in a bright, piquant blending of harmonious tastes. A special, the dish deserves a permanent place on the menu, perhaps replacing the awful crab cake, which was more like a pancake made of breading. But its accompanying tropical green apple-fresh mango compote might be lavished on a worthier item.
In an unusual version of steamed mussels, loads of sweet roasted garlic infused the liquor released by the shellfish, which bathed in the garlic-thickened broth. An order of Thai shrimp brought a tasty mingling of chunks of shrimp and stir-fried julienne vegetables, the mix heaped into a small basket of fried wonton noodles in a charming presentation. A dozen littlenecks on the half shell proved cool and refreshing, and dense lobster bisque was full of lobster flavor.
On the other hand, four shrimp poised on a martini glass needed the wasabi and ginger dipping sauce that was described on the menu. The bland mayonnaise substitution was a disappointment and failed to carry the dish.
Ordering meats in a restaurant that specializes in seafood is often asking for trouble. But if such dishes are offered on the menu, they should be given the care afforded other preparations. Listed as prime Black Angus steak, the grilled half-inch slab was too thin, too chewy and too dry. Much the same could be said for the parched breast of chicken.
That out of the way, cheers for creatures from the sea. A wafer of crispness sealed in the juiciness of exquisitely seared red snapper; pearly couscous and steamed asparagus shared the plate. Pan seared grouper was as good, but accompaniments were flops: a few florets of dull broccoli and ''Portuguese potatoes'' that seemed like home fries with onions.
A small cake of portobello mushroom risotto was topped with carefully roasted lobster tails, small and sweet. A little less salt would have perfected a gently spiced rendition of cioppino, an opulent fish stew. Served in broth enhanced by chunks of tomato, every ingredient -- clams, crab, sea scallops, shrimp and fin fish -- was cooked to its own need and retained its textural integrity.
A three-course dinner averages $39 without drinks, tax and tip. The restaurant is at Fenimore Road, south of Mamaroneck Avenue.
Down By The Bay
410 West Boston Post Road
(Route 1), Mamaroneck.
(914) 381-6939.
GOOD
ATMOSPHERE -- Neat, modest dining room beyond a small bar and lounge at the entrance of a 1792 landmark house. Blue and white linens on closely spaced tables. Noise is deafening when the place fills. Service can be slow and unpolished.
SMOKING -- At the bar.
RECOMMENDED DISHES -- Grilled octopus, littlenecks on the half shell, steamed mussels, Thai shrimp, lobster tails over risotto, red snapper, cioppino, rock shrimp mashed potatoes, broccoli rape.
PRICES -- Lunch, main dishes, $7 to $14. Dinner, main dishes, $17 to $28.
CREDIT CARDS -- Major cards accepted.
HOURS -- Lunch (summer), Fridays and Saturdays, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner, Tuesdays through Fridays, 3 to 10 p.m.; Saturdays, 3 to 11 p.m.; Sundays, 3 to 9 p.m.
RESERVATIONS -- Accepted.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS -- From back entrance.
THE RATINGS -- Excellent, Very good, Good, Satisfactory, Poor.
Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
