HARTSDALE
YES, we're a restaurant," reads a sign on the front door of Global Gatherings here. "Yes, we're a furniture store."
Visitors can be forgiven for being a little confused. The establishment is either a furniture store that sells food or a restaurant that sells furniture, depending on your focus. It was opened two years ago by Desiree Kelly, who went to culinary school and grew up in the furniture business. But don't let the price tags on the dining room tables and chairs keep you from sitting down. The place serves appealing, interesting food that is worth overcoming any initial trepidation you may feel about the unusual setting.
Just as the furniture for sale comes from all over the world, the menu also is international. Asian, Italian and Latin American tastes dominate, and there is some overlapping. Fusion cooking is trendy though rarely done well. Global Gatherings is an exception.
Take the lobster dumplings appetizer. The soft thin shells encasing chunks of meat had a Chinese taste, but the light truffle Parmesan broth was more Italian. Whatever the origins, it was delicious.
Mussels aren't typically used in Thai cuisine, but Thai mussels were another exciting appetizer. The dish has a lemon grass, kaffir lime leaf and chili broth with a hint of coconut, and the sweet and spicy tastes alternated in my mouth to great effect.
The appetizers generally are excellent. Barbecued chicken quesadilla with smoked Gouda cheese and caramelized red onion was a creamy, yummy combination. Jumbo lump crab cake had a great kick that nicely complemented the red pepper rémoulade and side of roasted jalapeño corn salsa.
On a recent visit, the soup sampler trio of the day included tomato bisque, ginger carrot and mushroom truffle served in individual cups. Each was such a frothy, wonderful combination of tastes, the soups could have come in large bowls and I still would have wanted more.
Entrees are equally eclectic. The pistachio-crusted lamb with garlic mashed potatoes was a tasty version of a classic spring dish. At lunch, a small New York strip steak with caramelized onions, roasted mushrooms and just the right amount of blue cheese glaze was another winner. Don't miss the steak's side of memorable truffle-dusted fries.
But the fish dishes take the highest honors. Specials of pan-roasted monkfish and deep fried sole were served with a terrific rock shrimp herb demi-glace. Swordfish cooked Mediterranean style, with calamata olives and tomatoes, was a moist delight. And misoyaki-glazed salmon was a savory take on the typical Hawaiian miso sauce dish.
I have no complaints about the desserts. Ms. Kelly is the pastry chef and the offerings are complicated and satisfying. A napoleon of airy, flaky pastry layered with coconut ice cream, caramelized fresh pineapple and macadamia nuts will bring me back here soon. The chocolate, pecan and caramel brownies were luscious, and the Grand Marnier crème brûlée with pistachio shortbread cookies were a creamy pleasure.
For all its sophistication, the restaurant has a cozy feel. Children are welcomed, and the children's "pu pu platter" (macaroni and cheese, peanut butter and jelly, carrots and more are presented on a divided plate) is bound to please most of the younger ones. Busy parents are encouraged to order food to go, which is taken out to the car.
The music — Brazilian, French, nuevo flamenco — adds to the comfortable atmosphere. The drinks, from lagers, ciders and ales to an impressive international wine list, are unusually varied. Too much may be going on at Global Gatherings, but by the time I saw the cook leave the kitchen to unload furniture from a truck as I left, it all made perfect sense.
Global Gatherings
156 South Central Avenue,
Hartsdale
(914) 683-1833
VERY GOOD
ATMOSPHERE A combined restaurant and furniture shop. International and eclectic offerings for both come in a warmly lighted homey space.
RECOMMENDED DISHES Lobster dumplings; Thai mussels; soup sampler; pan-roasted monkfish; misoyaki glazed salmon; pistachio-crusted lamb; napoleon of ice cream, pineapple and macadamia nuts.
PRICES Appetizers and soups, $6 to $15; entrees, $14 to $29; desserts, $7.95. Separate lunch and Sunday brunch menus.
HOURS Sunday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Monday.
CREDIT CARDS All major cards.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS Through the front door.
RESERVATIONS Recommended on weekends.
THE RATINGS Excellent. Very Good. Good. Satisfactory. Poor. Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
Review published: April 23, 2006
